In the 19th century,
people would buy a watch in the following manner. A customer would know exactly
the type of movement and the person who designed the movement. After selecting
the movement, he would consult the watchmaker in the shop and order a case with
engraving to suit the occasion. Pocket watches in that era were a serious
purchase unlike the mass production of movements in cases today.
The movements of a
mechanical watch has the following components
A mainspring acts as
the power source. The mechanism of the mainspring allows the winding up and a
ratchet prevents it from unwinding. The wheel train consists of gear trains
that have many levels such as center wheel, third wheel and fourth wheel.
Another set of wheels determines the motion of the minute hand by 12 to move
the hour hand. The gear train transmits the force from the power source to the
escapement.
The escapement allows
the wheel train to advance or engage a finite distance with each swing of the
balance wheel. The force moves a gear termed escape wheel by one tooth at a
time via an oscillating lever. The repetitive movement of the escape wheel
gives the balance wheel a push that keeps it in motion.
Movement types called
calibers have evolved from full plate, three quarter plate to bridge movement,
which ended with the nomenclature Geneva movement. Movements are classified as
manual or automatic. The basics of watch movements is termed caliber as
different watch makers opt their own design that allows watchmakers to repair
and service watches. The expertise of professional watch restoration experts
and service craftsmen is important when rare and expensive watches are given to
them. A manual watch needs to be serviced at least once in 4 years. A reputed
craftsman in the watch servicing business is Perpetual Time in England. Several
watch aficionados testify to their professionalism through Perpetual Time reviews. Their
peers in the business are also in awe of the watch making skills of this
reputed establishment. Customers posting in Perpetual Time reviews have this to say repeatedly – a
genuine ‘thank you”.
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